Showing posts with label Haley Sweetland Edwards. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Haley Sweetland Edwards. Show all posts

Thursday, May 31, 2012

BLOG: Taking on Saakashvili. By Haley Sweetland Edwards (latitude.blogs.nytimes.com)

The Georgian-born billionaire Bidzina Ivanishvili.
The Georgian-born billionaire Bidzina Ivanishvili. Photo David Mdzinarishvili/Reuters


(latitude.blogs.nytimes.com) TBILISI, Georgia – On Sunday afternoon, Nika Tavadze led me backstage at the Marjanishvili Theater and into a small dressing room plastered with photographs, programs and curling posters of old plays.


Many Georgians would recognize Tavadze from his two decades playing leading roles on Georgia’s stages, and for his chiseled good looks — a friend described him as “the Brad Pitt of Georgia”— but I hadn’t come to ask about that. I wanted to know how he had found himself playing a bit part in the heated piece of political theater that’s been sweeping Georgia for the past six months.


Here’s the plot. Along with thousands of other actors, directors, artists, teachers and poets in this poor, South Caucasus nation, Tavadze’s meager salary has been quietly subsidized for the past 15 years by a once-reclusive Georgian-born billionaire, Bidzina Ivanishvili, who made a fortune in banking and investments after the fall of the Soviet Union. He is worth an estimated $6.4 billion.


Francois Lenoir/Reuters President Mikheil Saakashvili of Georgia. “He was like a phantom,” Tavadze told me. “We would all receive his money, but no one ever saw his face.”


All that changed six months ago when Ivanishvili announced he would enter politics as an opposition leader, becoming, overnight, the most credible threat to President Mikheil Saakashvili since his rise to power during the peaceful Rose Revolution in 2003. Saakashvili has long been a darling of the West for his promises to remake Georgia as a beacon of democracy in its rough neighborhood.


In October, Ivanishvili accused Saakashvili of faking his democratic aspirations and amassing a “total monopoly of power.” Ivanishvili assembled an opposition coalition, Georgian Dream, to take on the ruling party during this year’s parliamentary elections, scheduled for October. He also promised to defeat Saakashvili himself should the president run in next year’s race for prime minister.


And with that began a six-month mud-slinging, with both men claiming to be the savior of the country’s rickety democracy. Debate often veered toward the subject of Ivanishvili’s alleged “vote buying” through his vast network of patronage — hence Tavadze’s walk-on role in the theater of national politics.


Almost immediately after Ivanishvili entered the fray, Saakashvili and his party loyalists began behaving like goons. (A United Nations rapporteur put it a little more diplomatically: The Georgian government’s “generally positive trajectory” is in danger, he wrote in February, of succumbing to “a widespread climate of fear, intimidation and arbitrary restrictions of fundamental freedoms.”) In October, Ivanishvili was stripped of his Georgian citizenship on the basis of an infrequently-applied law (he’s currently appealing), and in the following months, his businesses and colleagues were subjected to police harassment, surveillance and arrest on trumped up charges, according to Irakli Alasani, Georgia’s former ambassador to the United Nations and now a prominent member of Ivanishvili’s Georgian Dream coalition.


Last month, the ominously-titled Chamber of Control, Georgia’s internal auditing agency, hauled in more than 100 Ivanishvili supporters, subjecting each to private interrogations lasting for several hours. Amnesty International called it a case of voter intimidation.


It’s easy to see why Saakashvili and his cronies would see Ivanishvili, whose wealth is roughly half of Georgia’s G.D.P., as an enormous threat. Over the past decade and a half, Ivanishvili has been dispensing gifts not only to cultural elites like Tavadze, but to the needy, too, paying for health care for poor children and subsidizing the meager pensions of the elderly and disabled. In his hometown of Chorvila, everyone got a brand new roof. He’s also contributed an estimated $600 million to a variety of government projects, one of Ivanishvili’s aides told me, helping to build everything from military barracks to schools.


In Georgia, where a significant portion of the population lives below the poverty line and the unemployment rate hovers at 16 percent, funding like that is not incidental, and it’s completely reasonable for the government to pass electoral reforms limiting corporate donations and strictly auditing campaign funding.


But the way Saakashvili’s government has gone about it — namely, passing two problematic amendments in December, and unleashing the Chamber of Control in March — has been duplicitous, undemocratic and downright disheartening, particularly for the international community, which has sunk more than $4 billion dollars into Georgia since 2008 on the hope that it would actually become that beacon of democracy that Saakashvili promised.


To take the broad view on Georgia’s future, it doesn’t much matter who wins the parliamentary horserace this year. What matters is that Georgia’s fragile democracy survives its first gloves-off electoral competition. It has been easy for Saakashvili to espouse the value of democracy when he has not faced a credible competitor. Now that he is up against a titan, he must live up to his democratic promises.


At the very least, in the coming months, Georgia’s increasingly heated political theater must be allowed to play out under the harsh scrutiny of a national and international spotlight.


Haley Sweetland Edwards is a freelance writer living in Tbilisi, Georgia.

Monday, February 28, 2011

JOURNALISM: Haley Sweetland Edwards - freelance journalist, writer, eater, adventurista, bon vivant (haleyedwards.com)


I’m a freelance reporter living and working in the Caucasus and the Middle East. Over the course of my travels, I’ve chewed qat with Yemeni sheikhs, trekked with Bedouins in the Sahara, weathered a tear-gassing in Kashmir, back-country skied in the Rockies, climbed to prehistoric cave paintings in Somaliland, sailed through the Panama Canal, picnicked in the Mayan pyramids and, just once, threw myself out of a plane over Washington State.

I was able to report from Yemen last year thanks to a grant from the Pulitzer Center for Crisis Reporting, and with funding from the Overseas Press Club Fellowship. I’ve been grossly over-educated at Yale (BA philosophy & history) and Columbia (MA journalism & politics), where I learned, among other things, how to drink whiskey, ski the giant slalom, and pretend I understand Heidegger. I currently live in Tbilisi, Georgia.

Clips +++ Blog +++ Contact

ARTICLE: Boca on the Black Sea. By Haley Sweetland Edwards (theatlantic.com)

Image credit: Davide Monteleone/Contrasto/Redux


An American developer seeks to create the “Florida of the Caucasus.”

March 2011 ATLANTIC MAGAZINE +++ theatlantic.com

The real-estate developer doesn’t seem to see the bullet holes in the cement wall behind him. Or the mortar-scarred apartment buildings. Or the half-bombed mansions where trees sprout through wallpapered living rooms. All the real-estate developer seems to see in Abkhazia, this breakaway territory wedged between Georgia and Russia along the Black Sea, is opportunity.

“This place could be the Florida of the Caucasus,” Bruce Talley says, jabbing my arm with excitement as we walk between two filthy concrete hotels. Gorbachev, Khrushchev, and Stalin all built vacation homes in the area, their porches overlooking a string of empty beaches, turquoise water, and looming mountains that tinge peach at sunset. “This is the ideal subtropical paradise for 145 million Russians, and there is nowhere for them to stay.”


The fact that Abkhazia, a piece of land roughly the size of Puerto Rico, claims to be an independent nation; that Georgia vehemently claims it as its own; that a formidable queue of Russian tanks along the Georgian border defends its asserted sovereignty; that hundreds of thousands of refugees have fled from here in the past two decades, leaving their empty homes to crumble in the beautiful sunshine—these are all merely matters of detail. Talley, a South Dakota farm boy who served a stint in Alaska as a crab fisherman, made millions as a bond salesman in California, enjoying a lifestyle that afforded him Porsches (plural) and a Ferrari (metallic blue). He got into real-estate development six years ago and moved to southern Russia, convinced that a fortune can be made here (he’s currently developing a shopping center in Krasnodar).

In November, after receiving a personal invitation from Abkhazia’s de facto prime minister, Talley became the first American real-estate developer to open a firm here. (“We need Western investment,” Prime Minister Sergei Shamba told me. “Bruce is good for us.”) Talley now blogs, tweets, and maintains both a YouTube channel and a Facebook fan page—all to promote Abkhazia.


Talley’s moment of opportunity traces back to the confused crack-up of the Soviet Union, when the region of Abkhazia was incorporated into the new nation of Georgia. Independent-minded Abkhazians promptly set up their own government and managed to stave off Georgian authority. For most of the past 20 years, though, Abkhazia’s economy has been in a deep freeze, stymied by war with Georgia in the early ’90s and then by international blockades.

But Russia’s decision in 2008 to recognize Abkhazia as an independent nation (along with Georgia’s other breakaway region, South Ossetia) is now opening up Abkhazia to the world. At least that’s Talley’s pitch. With sovereign recognition came Russian-backed border security (tanks, long-range missiles, 3,000 troops), Russian cash (upwards of $120 million a year), an influx of Russian private investors, and more than a million tourists last summer alone. The newly revived real estate is suddenly primed for development.


As Abkhazia’s only ally in the region, Russia has been the first to take advantage. The former mayor of Moscow, Yuri Luzhkov, has bought beachfront property near Pitsunda, where he plans to develop a resort. The Russian government also plans to build a luxury resort, already nicknamed “Putin City,” sometime before the 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi, Russia, just north of the Abkhaz border.

Of course, Georgia, which still claims legal control over Abkhazia, is officially aghast. Georgian diplomats say the de facto Abkhaz government has no authority to allow anyone—least of all their enemies in Moscow—to lease, develop, or privatize the Georgian beachfront. The U.S. and most of the international community support Georgia’s position. Partly as a result of this isolation, Abkhazia has ceded to Russia control over its railways, airport, and offshore oil exploration. The tiny territory has come to rely on Moscow for roughly 90 percent of its trade. But a handful of American and European policy experts are beginning to share Talley’s instinct: if Abkhazia’s going to develop anyway, maybe the West shouldn’t be left out in the cold.

“All our current policy does is push Abkhazia further into Russia,” Lincoln Mitchell, an associate research scholar at Columbia University’s Harriman Institute and a former director of the National Democratic Institute in Georgia, told me. “If we start a dialogue with Abkhazia, we could begin to drive a wedge between them and Russia. We have to build a relationship with the Abkhaz people before we have any influence there.”


Driving back down Abkhazia’s wending coast, Talley pointed to a series of decrepit, half-collapsed Soviet- era buildings. “I see a five-star hotel here,” he says, and “a family resort over there,” and “definitely something akin to a Club Med along the coast up here.” When a line of palm trees gives way to a view of the snowcapped Caucasus Mountains, Talley jabs my arm again. “Look! It’s like Big Sur meets Kauai!” And then he laughs. “Okay, so that’s a bit of a stretch. But just wait. You’ll see. This place will change so fast.”

Haley Sweetland Edwards is a journalist who covers Central Asia and the Middle East and currently lives in Tbilisi, Georgia.