CLIMBING ADVENTURE: North Caucasus mountains on Russian-Georgian border.

ON THE RUSSIAN-GEORGIAN BORDER (AP) -- Tears welled in my eyes twice while hiking some of the most beautiful landscapes on the planet - once in mid-retch gag and once in awe-struck wonder.
They were unexpected bookends for a journey that only vaguely resembled the trip I planned for myself and my hiking partner Ben Yeomans. But that's how adventures often happen in Russia -- unexpectedly, with wonder, bewilderment - and occasionally even nausea. more >>>

If You Go...

TIPS: Russia's North Caucasus is a volatile, corrupt and mind-boggling place, a mix of mindsets that is one part holdover Soviet bureaucracy, one part clan-driven, xenophobic distrust, one part anti-terrorist police policies. The rewards are immense if you have a thick skin, willingness to grease a palm or two, and the patience to weather capricious bureaucracy.

TIMING: For trekking or hiking, September is the best time to go, after the crowds have gone and the weather is cooler. July and August are peak hiking and climbing months. Be prepared for long lines of tourists if you are climbing Mount Elbrus. For skiing, snowboarding or ice climbing, late winter from February on is ideal.

VISAS: Most foreigners will need a visa, obtained well in advance, to enter Russia, and will need to register with authorities upon arrival and have permits for visiting Mount Elbrus, the park and border area. You may want to consult with a travel agent experienced in Russian travel.

GETTING THERE: Most routes involve flying to Moscow's Sheremyetevo or Domodedevo airports; then to Mineralniye Vodi, the city nearest Elbrus; then a three-hour drive south to the Baksan River, the jumping off point for Elbrus.

FOR MORE INFORMATION:

* Mount Elbrus & Caucasus English-language Web site: http://www.elbrus.net/home.htm

* Elbrus National Park administrative offices, ul. Lesnaya, 2 Elbrus Kabardino-Balkariya, phone 011-7-(8)866-387-8141

* Guide services based in Russia: Elbrus Navigator,

011-7-866-387-1424 or navi5642@yandex.ru or

* Go-Elbrus Terskol, 011-7-866-387-1335 or http://www.go-elbrus.com.

* Travel agency based in Ireland with experience in travel to Elbrus region:

Adventure Alternative, http://www.adventurealternative.com/