I went because: To work on the country's presidential election, on behalf of the American Bar Association.
Don't miss: UNESCO World Heritage sites in the capital, Baku, and nearby fire that erupts from the ground, the site of a James Bond film scene, and the Zoroastrian Temple.
Don't bother: Trying to eat seafood from the Caspian Sea - too polluted.
Coolest souvenir: Handmade prayer carpet for a mosque - small enough to hang.
Worth a splurge: Beautiful carpets
I wish I'd packed: A windbreaker; the wind off the Caspian can seem like a hurricane.
Other comments: Fascinating mix of cultures, old and new, rich and poor. The roads are not for the cautious driver - shared with animals, machinery and other obstacles.
SFGate.com
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This article appeared on page G - 3 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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